Tuesday 24 March 2009

Goodbye to Australia

Our Car Dies


Hiring an 18-year-old car was always going to be a risk and perhaps we should be pleased that we managed nearly 5000km of trouble-free motoring. We had grown fond of the car – and of Michael, the car's owner.

Our journey had taken us through many places that would have been far worse to break down in than Bermagui – a beautiful small seaside town with a lovely little harbour, safe swimming and great walks.


The coast near Bermagui
Our radiator sprang a leak on the way into town from our campsite about 4km away. We had come in for the Summer Seaside Festival which consisted of a parade and a large number of stalls on the town's oval (playing field for Aussie Rules football).


















Tense anticipation of the parade

We bought some stuff to try to fix up the leak and went off to watch the parade while it set. There is something wonderful about small town Australia. The Australian 'can-do' spirit is always very evident. This event had all the hallmarks of a village fĂȘte but done Aussie style. In contrast to the Sydney Mardi Gras the previous week, this parade was opened by a group of pupils from the aboriginal pre-school and included the local fire brigade, and the Soldiers Club Pipers (kilts and bagpipes and all).



The 'Scottish' Pipers

In fact it was hardly a parade – more an amble along the main street by a disparate set of organisations, but drawing warm appreciation from the crowd.

Unfortunately for the car, the adhesive didn't work so we searched the town for a garage / workshop - there was only one, but closed on Saturday. So we enjoyed the rest of the day and eventually returned to our camp cabin. Since nothing could be done until Monday we went for some walks near the camp, enjoyed the sunshine and made use of the camp pool.

The coastline near Wallaga Lake


Camel Rock
A phone call to Michael revealed that he was off on holiday and he suggested that we do our best to get the car repaired ...

Oh well, we did our best. We managed to get Conrad, the local mechanic, to come and check out the car. He confirmed that the car's condition was terminal – the cylinder head gasket had blown. We had the car towed to the local garage where Conrad performed the last rites (removal of the tax document and number plates).


We bid farewell
As with the best undertakers this was all done with great sensitivity for the feelings of the bereaved. After a short period of mourning we set about sorting out how to get out of Bermagui.

The recent morning temperatures and shorter days had suggested that our tenting days were numbered and that this was a good time to give away all our camping gear.


Deciding what we can carry (on the left)
A local resident in the camp site offered to take it all, with the promise that it would be of use to a scout group in Nowra. So,with baggage suitably down-sized (although still including 32 books) we felt able to carry it, and relocated to town. We discovered that there was a daily bus connecting with a train to Melbourne (amazing!) but it left at 6:20 a.m. from a town 20 km away. The early morning taxi cost nearly as much as the bus ticket but we made it, although the taxi driver had no idea where the bus stopped. It was somewhat surreal standing in the dark in a completely empty town wondering where to wait.

But it did arrive, and on time, and after a 6-hour bus journey and 4 hours on the train we finally arrived in Melbourne in wonderful sunshine. It was good to be back.

Wednesday 18th March - Jeff's Birthday – and, after a night in a pretty awful motel in Footscray, both of us felt somewhat in need of a 'comfort blanket'. The hire company's replacement car was not really what we wanted and we decided to hire a real car from Budget. This had comfortable seats, everything worked and you could hold a conversation while the engine was running. With spirits lifted, we headed for the Mornington Peninsula towards Portsea. The sun came out and the temperature soared, and we decided that a 'nice hotel' with a bath would be just the ticket. We booked somewhere through the local tourist information office and arrived to find the place really luxurious with spa bath, a large room with satellite t.v., and internet in the room – all the luxuries of life! You may not think this to be a big deal but we haven't seen a real bath for months – only showers.


Nepean Poinr. Just another wonderful beach
... and another


... and another.
After three days of pampering ourselves, we returned to our 'familiar' hotel in Melbourne, the George Powlett Apartments. Situated only about 10 minutes walk from the city centre, it provides all that we need at a very reasonable price. It's our fourth stay here. It was lovely to wander the Melbourne streets and take in the atmosphere. It was the Greek festival weekend and some of the streets had been closed to traffic, stalls set out and Greek restaurants overspilling into the road. Apparently Melbourne's Greek population is second in number only to Athens. Eating souvlaki in the street amongst crowds of Greeks you could indeed feel you were in a Greek town.

Our last few days were somewhat tense – cargo ship trouble again. The ship had originally been due to depart on 20th March, but over the months in Australia we learned that it was running more and more behind schedule. We checked in regularly to be sure we would be in the right place at the right time, and the 26th March kept being confirmed as departure day. Everything was arranged around that. Until on 24th we heard that it would be the 27th March. After these months of travelling, that should have been an easy problem for the Blumsoms to resolve – simply book a room for another night. But 26th March also sees the start of the Australian Grand Prix in Melbourne, with 90,000 people expected to visit the city, all of whom have pre-booked all the available accommodation months ago. Luckily Meg's negotiation skills came in handy. There is a very long tale about how the shipping agent got hold of the captain in the middle of the night, but the outcome of the story is that we were allowed to board on 26th March. The alternative was to have slept in the Seafarers Refuge, which might have been an interesting experience.

We hired bikes, and cycled the wonderful Yarra Valley, noting how summer in Australia was turning to autumn, just in time for Easter. We planned our activities for the cargo ship. Twenty three days out of contact with no television/radio; we figured we needed plenty of books and visited loads of secondhand book shops (including the University bookshops for Jeff to buy maths books); we bought sketching pads and paints (Meg) and a kind friend had sent a tapestry set to keep her occupied. And as a luxury – a key board for our lap top; the luxury not being the cost, but how much we could carry.

We will be out of email contact until 19th April, when we land in Ensenada Mexico. So Happy Easter

PS Megs plan to buy Easter Eggs was fooled, we are not allowed to take food on board the ship with us!

PPS – we are sending this blog on 25th March – and just in case ... we still haven't cancelled our bedspaces (one single bed and a mattress on the floor) at the Seafarers refuge.

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